Cold water dyes for all natural fibers Discovered late last century, Naphtol is principal dye used in Batik production in South East Asia. Naphtol dyes are not sold in the form of a "finished dye" but in form of their components ( insoluble azo base and fast colour coupling compound ) which combine on the fibre to produce a water insoluble azo dye of outstanding fastness properties. Naphtol are the only truly cold water dyes available to home dyers which makes them ideal for wax resist (batik) application. They are suitable for dyeing of Cotton, Silk & Rayon. Naphtol dyes can be applied by two methods: 1. Immersion method - most commonly used in Batik dyeing 2. Hand painting method (with or without thickener) 1. IMMERSION METHOD Naphtol dyes are applied by the means of two baths. The first bath consists of "Naphtol solution" which impregnates the cloth with a chemical, which in turn reacts with the "Diazo solution " in the second bath. This reaction is instant and creates the colour. No further fixation is necessary. The whole dyeing process takes only a few minutes from start to finish. The resulting colours are fast to light, washing and bleaching. NAPHTOL BATH: 1. Paste 2g (approx. 1 teaspoon) of Naphtol with small amount of Turkey Red Oil. 2. Add 1/4 litre (1 cup) of boiling water and mix well, then add 1/4 teaspoon of Caustic Soda (Lye) flakes. 3. Add enough cold water to make 1 litre. DIAZO BATH: Mix 6g (approx. 1 table spoon) of Diazo with a little cold water then add more cold water to make a total of 1 litre.  DYEING PROCEDURE You'll need 3 containers - one for Naphtol , one for intermediate rinse and one for Diazo. 1. Place the cloth into the Naphtol Bath; agitate gently to ensure even penetration of the dye. Leave for 2-3 minutes. 2. Lift out the fabric and drip off over the dye bath, and then dip into a bucket of salty water (use 1 tablespoon of cooking salt per litre of water) + 1/2 teaspoon of caustic soda (lye). This is to stop excess of Naphtol polluting the Diazo bath. 3. Then, immerse the fabric in the Diazo bath. Agitate and leave for 2 -3 minutes. 4. Rinse in cold water. If you need a darker colour simply repeat the dyeing process   NOTE: After all dyeing is completed, immerse the fabric in soapy boiling water for a couple of minutes to eliminate excess dye and to stabilize the colour. Some Diazo e.g. Orange GC will abruptly change colour from pale red to orange in boiling water. AFTER THE DYE BATHS HAVE BEEN PREPARED, THEY ARE GOOD FOR MANY DYEINGS WITHIN A PERIOD OF ABOUT 6 HOURS, PROVIDING THEY ARE KEPT AWAY FROM DIRECT SUNLIGHT.   2.  HAND PAINTING METHOD Naphtol bath 1. Paste 2g (approx. 1 teaspoon) of Naphtol with small amount of Turkey Red Oil. 2. Add 1/4 litre (1 cup) of boiling water and mix well, then add 1/4 teaspoon of Caustic Soda (Lye) flakes. 3. Add enough cold water to make 1 litre. 4. Place the cloth into the Naphtol Bath; agitate gently to ensure even penetration of the dye. Leave for 2 -3 minutes. 5. Lift out and hang to dry away from light - best done late evening and left to dry in dark.     Diazo painting solution Mix 1 tablespoon (6 gr) Diazo in 1 glass of water. Then stretch (Naphtolated) cloth on frame and paint on or spray the Diazo solution. Colour appears instantly and does not require any other fixation. You can achieve multicoloured dyeing in the space of 5 minutes by applying different Diazo on the same cloth. What makes Naphtol Dyes from any other dyes is: 1. Once a Diazo has been applied and a colour created, no other Diazo will react in the same spot. Meaning you can freely apply red colour next to blue - they will not mix, the edges of touching colours will be well defined. 2. Colours created by Naphtol Dyes are resistant to bleach making them ideal for use in production of hand painted tablecloth, bed sheets etc. Diazo Black K (Brenthamine K) is a special dyeing salt. Applied over any material dyed with fibre reactive dye, it will react with it and produce black colour. Hand painting method is at its best for multi coloured tie-dyeing. Naphtol Dyes are the cheapest (up to 40%) to use in comparison with Reactive Dyes (Procion, Drimarene-K, Remazol etc.). Any Naphtol will react with any Diazo and produce a colour. There are thousands of colours and hues that can be created by using different combinations of Naphtol & Diazo. Do not get confused with so many Naphtols:- Naphtol G is "Yellow" Naphtol and combination with any Diazo only produces a variety yellow colour. Naphtol BT is "Brown" Naphtol producing a variety of earthy brown colours. Naphtol BR is "Brown" Naphtol producing a variety of reddish brown Naphtol SR is "Black" Naphtol producing black in combination with Red B Diazo Naphtol GR is "Green" Naphtol and is generally used in combination with Blue BB Diazo for bottle green Naphtol ITR produces earthy/reddish colours. Naphtols D, AS, BO, TR, OL, BS & RS will produce all other colours. Different Naphtols produce different hues of same colour. For example:- Orange hues with Diazo Yellow GC, Diazo Orange GC & RD Red hues with Diazo Red RC, AL, 3GL or B Blue hues with Diazo Blue BB, 3B or GC Violet hues with Diazo Violet B Green with Diazo Green BB or GT Black with Diazo Black B, K or GT.   SAMPLES When starting to use this fascinating dye, it pays to keep samples and make your own colour chart, detailing Naphtol and Diazo combinations, which should be kept for your future reference. Always dye samples of different materials together, as Naphtol will dye each fabric a slightly different shade or tone. Keep in mind that Naphtols trend to dye silk to much stronger shade in comparison with cotton. It is imperative to test strength before applying to your work as there is no remedy or possibility of removing wrong colour or shade. FOR DISPOSAL COMBINE REMAINING NAPHTOL & DIAZO BATHS WHICH WILL NEUTRALIZE EACH OTHER. IT IS THEN SAFE TO DISCARD.   Automatic weight & volume calculator

TRANSFER PRINTING This extremely easy process for decorating fabric with brilliant colours is nonpolluting, safe, and does not require either fixing agents or rinsing. The fabric remains supple and retains its original feel. These dyes offer great flexibility of application: the design can be applied by brush using water colour technique, fine writing pen, roller, printing block, and silk screen method. The process consists of painting the design onto paper by any method. After the paper has dried, the design is placed face down onto the fabric and then subjected to heat and pressure. The painted dye sublimates (changes from solid to vapour), under the heat and is absorbed by the fibre. The final result is very brilliant colour, fast to light and washing. Although the colours, as they appear on the paper after it has dried, are dull and uninteresting, the colour on the fabric will be brilliant - so remember that true colour appears only after absorption into the fibre. Almost any paper can be used for your design; though best results are obtained by using thin, nonabsorbent paper with a shiny surface e.g.. Litho paper. The success of transferring the design onto fabric will depend largely on the type of heating equipment used. Best results will be achieved with a transfer press or, for example, an Elna press or similar. However, a simple iron can be used providing it does not have steam holes, as the holes would appear on the fabric as polka dots unless the iron is constantly moved. Every possible technique can be used to create texture variations on the fabric ... collage of preprinted paper, placing objects under the fabric, placing a leaf between fabric and preprinted paper would give a clear silhouette of the leaf, etc. SUITABLE FABRICS for printing are Polyester, Orlon, and Nylon. Prints can be made even on clear plastic sheeting. The dyes have NO affinity for natural fibres, but mixtures containing at least 65% synthetic can be dyed. METHOD: Paste the dye with just enough boiling water to dissolve it. Then add cold water to required strength. There are no set rules as to how much water should be used, however, as a guide, 10g per 100 ml will give full intensity and 3g per 100 ml will produce pastel shades. Dyes can be thickened with DR-33 paste (do not use Manutex as it is not suitable), for silk screen printing and painting. Thickened dye produces sharper clear lines. It must be remembered that every nuance of texture, however insignificant, will be faithfully reproduced during heat transfer. To prepare your transfer bed by placing several sheets of newspaper onto a firm surface, covering the last layer with a clean sheet of paper. Place your fabric on top of paper and place the painted design FACE DOWN on the fabric. Cover with another thin sheet of paper. Pre heat iron on wool setting - 200C (390F) and press slowly, remaining at the same spot for 20-30 seconds. Make sure the design does not move by taping it to the edge of the fabric. Any movement will result in a fuzzy image. It is a good idea to check if the transfer is taking place by carefully lifting a corner of the printed sheet. If complete transfer has not taken place, continue ironing till you are satisfied with the results. The dye is now firmly and permanently fixed to the fabric, and there is no further treatment required. After printing, some dye remains on the paper, and it is possible to reprint the same design again, the colour becoming paler after subsequent printing. DYEING LENGTH OF FABRIC: The fabric is dyed at boil. Weigh the material and use 25-50g of dye (lower amount for paler shade) and minimum of 15 litre water for 1 kilo of fabric.  METHOD: Paste dye in little boiling water then adds balance of water. Add 3% Polysol Carrier (300 ml per 1 kilo of material) Immerse material and slowly bring to boil. Dye for 30-60 minutes depending on depth on required depth of shade. Rinse material in cold water.

Direct dyes for Cotton,Viscose, Silk and Nylon

Strong dyes- require only cooking salt and very hot or boiling water for easy dyeing. SOLAR dyes are used on cellulose fibers such as cotton, rayon, and linen. They lack the permanence of the cold water fiber reactive dyes which most serious dyers prefer for use on cellulose fibers, but in some cases they have advantages that make their use worthwhile. For example, while many of the direct dyes are not very lightfast, there are some dyes in the class that may be more lightfast than similar shades of fiber reactive dyes. All direct dyes do perform rather poorly with respect to washfastness. Without an appropriate after-treatment, direct dyes bleed a little with every washing, losing their brightness and endangering other clothes washed in the same load. However, there are special after-treatments which may be used to solve this problem. (Vinegar is not among them! In spite of claims you may see to the contrary, you cannot use vinegar to set any dye on cotton or other cellulose materials.) A product named DYEFIX (30 ml per litre of water), which is an ionic bulking agent which essentially "glues" the dye into the fiber, works very well to make fabric dyed with direct dyes washable without bleeding of the dye. These dyes are principally used for dyeing articles for "markets", curtains and theatre productions. 100 gram will dye 4 kilo (9 lb.) of dry fabric to dark shade. Solar BLACK is one of the best black dyes available for cotton dyeing.

RECIPE

NEEDED: Dye, Cooking salt (dissolve before adding to dye bath), Boiling water Each kilo (2.2lb) dry material requires between 15 - 20 litre (4 -5 gallons) of water. Ideally the fabric should be dyed at boiling temperature for 30 minutes, however if that is not possible, the dyes will perform adequately in very hot water. It is also possible to dye relatively cold water providing the material is left in the dye bath for 8 hours. Nylon is dyed for 30 minutes at the boil. For paler colours, just add more water. For tie-dyeing, maintain temperature as high as possible during the entire dyeing. Rinse material under cold running water until water runs almost clear. NB. Black should be dyed at 50-60° C only, and NO salt should be used with Scarlet !!

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Vat dyes are insuluble in water, and to be able to be applied to the cloth must be first "reduced" to leuko form with the aid of Caustic Soda and Sodium Hydrosulphite. To complete the dyeing, vat dyes have to be converted back to their insouluble form. This is done by simply hanging them "oxidise" in the air. Vat dyes have extremely high wash and boil fastness. Important practical propery is that they can be appied over material dyed with fibre reactive dyes, partly or completely stripping them thus creating multiple layered dyeing. Very effective for Shibori technique over fibre reactive (Drimarene-K ) dyes. REQUIREMENTS: 270g Caustic Soda (Lye) 1 litre cold water 15 litre hot water 17g Vat Dye 62g Sodium Hydrosulphte (Hydros) Preparation Sprinkle 270g Caustic Soda over 1 litre of cold water and leave to dissolve. Bottle and safety label - this solution is corrosive. This solution is called "loog" Vat preparation 1. Paste 17g dye in little hot water then add 80ml hot water at 60C° , add 17 g Sodium Hydrosulphite an leave it to "vat" for 15 minutes. 2. Meanwhile make another vat consisting of; 14.2 litre of water with temperature anything between 30 - 60C° 45g Sodium Hydrosulphite 45ml "loog" Now add the dye mixture from the first vat to the second vat. Immerse material and dye for 10-20 minutes, depending on depth of shade required. Rinse in cold water and hang out to oxidise.

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