Acid dyes for wool, silk & nylon

 RECIPE

Dye:

3 - 4 % of dry material weight (for deep shade)

Acetic Acid:

10 ml (3 teaspoons) per each litre of water

Water:

30 ~ 40 litre per kilo of dry material

Dye strength is best determined by test dyeing sample of material.
Some dyes e.g. Rhodamine, Violet and Turquoise require dyeing of only 0.5 - 1%

 

Add dissolved dye, Acetic Acid & Material to the dye bath. Raise heat and dye at or close to the
boiling point for approximately 45 minutes. Remove material from the dye bath and rinse in cold water.

 This is a standard commercial recipe. After the dyeing is finished the dye bath should be completely
"exhausted" with little or no colouring matter remaining in the dye bath. In practical craft situations it is
quite possible ( and frequently done) to shorten the dyeing time down to 15-30 minutes.

 

Cold Pad Batch Technique

The random effects produced by dipping or tie dyeing can also be produced using a technique of applying a cold, thickened solution of dye to yarn, and storing cold for 24 hours. Greater variety can be produced by this method as it is possible to apply the colours in ways not possible with the dip method. This application is simple and direct, although special chemicals and auxiliaries are needed. The method shown is for nylon and wool.

RECIPE FOR COLD PAD BATCH ON WOOL AND NYLON

Preparation of one litre of solution.

Acid Dye (0.5 - 3grams)

Urea crystals 300gr

Wetting Agent 2 ml LYOGEN

Acetic Acid (65%) 3 ml

Thickening agent 10 g Manutex RS dissolved in little methylated spirit.

 

Method

1. Measure 500 ml of water at 40°C in a glass beaker and add urea.
In a separate beaker, wet out the Manutex RS with the methylated spirits and stir to remove lumps.
2. Add the Manutex/methylated spirits mixture to the dissolved Urea solution and stir rapidly until all the lumps have been dissolved.
3. Add the acetic acid and wetting agent and stir well, strain the mixture through a fine cloth and make up the volume to 1 litre.
4. Divide this mixture into 5 or 6 equal parts. Weigh up 5 or 6 different wool dye powders and dissolve them separately in a minimum of hot water.
5. Add the dye solutions to the separate Urea/Manutex mix and stir till the dye is dissolved.

a. Pour the dye solution carefully over sections of the hank to give multiple bands of colour. When all dyes have been poured, place hank in an old towel and either wring or roll with a rolling pin along the length of the hank.

b. Remove the hank from the towel and place in a plastic bag and store for 24 hours at room temperature.
c. Wash in a warm detergent bath and dry

. --


 

Cool wool dyes


New range of low temperature acid dyes - High tinctorial strength.
High light fastness
Used for dyeing knitted wool garments, silk, woolen yarn and sheep skins.
There is no shrinkage or felting of wool.  

 

RECIPE

Dye:

1 - 2 % of dry material weight (for deep shade)

Acetic Acid:

1/2 teaspoon per litre of water

Water:

20 litre per kilo of dry material

For pale shades set water temperature at 50°C (120°F)
For deep shades set water temperature 70°-75°C (160°-165°F)
At this temperature, the knitted wool will not shrink or felt.
Soak garment for 30 minutes in dye bath.

 
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Sandocryl ® 

Modified basic dyes for dyeing acrylic (Acrilan, Courtelle, Orlon)
paper, wood & dried flowers.
Also used for dyeing silk and silk flowers in very brilliant colours.

RECIPE

Dye:

1 - 3% of dry material weight

Acetic Acid 30%:

1/2 teaspoon per litre of water

Water:

15-20 litre per kilo of dry material

Dissolve dye in little boiling water and add it to the bulk of cold water. Add acetic acid and Acrylic
fibre and bring to boil. Maintain at the boil for 60 minutes. Turn heat off but leave fabric to cool in dye solution (failure to cool slowly will distort fabric) - it is recommended to leave fabric cooling overnight

Silk , wood & dried flowers need only a short immersion.

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Drimalan-F dyes

 

Especially selected dyes for professional silk painter.
Strong vibrant colours for hand painting on silk . Steam fixation.
Dyes have a very high wash and light fastness.
Easy to prepare formulations with long storage life.

Dyes are very economical to use. For maximum strength 50gram
make 1 litre of silk dye.
50gram of Magenta & Turquoise make 2.7 litres of dye!
25gram of Cyan make 2.5 litres of dye!

HAND PAINTING RECIPE

.

Prepare the BASE MEDIUM: to 1 litre of water add 2 ml (one teaspoon) of Acetic Acid and 2 ml of LYOGEN. This mixture is used to dilute dye if paler colour is required. Bottle and use as required.

1.

Dissolve 50g of dye in one litre of water (see note below). This produces maximum intensity of colour*. Add a teaspoon each of Acetic Acid & LYOGEN. Once prepared, the liquid dye will keep for long time without deterioration.

2.

Paint on silk or wool.

3

Steam for 40 minutes. Steaming for longer time may affect the strength of colour. See note below **

4.

Rinse first in cold water, then in warm soapy water.

DISSOLVING DYES

 

Dyes in granular form should be dissolved by sprinkling them on top of lukewarm water whilst stirring. Dyes in powder form are dissolved in very hot water.

 

Magenta, Cyan & Turquoise: mix first with cold water & LYOGEN till "dispersed", then use boiling water.

*

Turquoise, Magenta & Cyan (200%) are extremely concentrated dyes. Maximum suggested dilution for Magenta & Turquoise is 18g per litre. For Cyan maximum suggested dilution is 10g per litre (1g per 100 ml). Using greater amounts of dye may lead to colours bleeding during washing. If stronger colour is required, and bleeding occurs, it can be counteracted to certain degree by rinsing in a bath containing 30 ml of DYEFIX to each litre of rinsing water.

**

Note : Successful steaming requires combination of heat and steam. If conducted in properly insulated vessel the steaming time should not exceed 40 minutes. Metal pots can be a problem due to excessive amounts of condensation inside the pot. Ideal for small time home production is a Chinese bamboo steamer placed in a Chinese cooking wok. It is not necessary to use any aluminum foil at all. Just wrap silk in thin cotton material, place it in the bamboo steamer and allow free circulation of steam . There is no condensation or ruined silk. Temperature inside steamer reaches very close to boiling temperature which is ideal for good fixation. Periodically add some boiling water to the wok .

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COLD BATCHING
Suitable only for wool (unspun fiber) and knitted garments

Materials needed:
5 ml Acetic Acid
5 ml Lyogen
300g Urea
10g Manutex or 5g DR33
10 ml Metholated Spirits

1.

Dissolve Urea in 500 ml warm water; add LYOGEN and Acetic Acid.

2.

Paste Manutex with Metholated Spirits in a screw top jar, add 500 ml of cold water, close lid - shake. Allow to swell
If using DR33 thickener -dissolve in cold water then add 2-3 drops of acetic acid and allow 15 minutes to swell.

3.

Add this to pre-dissolved Urea mixture and stir. This is your Base Medium to which small amounts of pre-dissolved dye are added. 5g of dye per 100 ml of Base Medium will give maximum colour intensity.

4.

Apply to wool, cover with plastic sheet (or place in plastic bag) and leave for 24 hours.

5.

Wash in hot soapy water.


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Drimarene-K and Procion dyes

Cold water fibre reactive dyes, suitable for dyeing on cotton, silk, jute, rayon and hessian. Can not be used on synthetics or fabric that has been coated with resin or drip-dry finish. All colours are completely inter mixable.
Unique property of Drimarene-K dye is
stability in water solution. They will keep for weeks without any adverse results or loss of colour strength providing nothing else has been added to the dye solution.

The dyes can be applied by 6 different methods to suit your needs:

1.

Dip dyeing

2.

Hand painting - chemical water fixation

3.

Hand painting - Drimafix fixation

4.

Tie dyeing

5.

4 Minutes rapid fixation method

6.

Polychromatic printing

DIP DYEING PROCESS

 

The following table sets out the amounts of dye and chemicals required for successful dyeing. It must be remembered that WEIGHT OF DRY MATERIAL determines the quantities of water, dye, and fixing agent.

For every 100 grams of material you need:
(lower figures are for medium shades)

2 litre of water

3-5 gr. dye

80- 100g salt

30- 40g soda ash

60- 90 minutes fixation

1.

Dissolve dye (granules by sprinkling on top of lukewarm water - powders by dissolving in very hot water) then add required amount of water.

2.

Immerse cloth and agitate to ensure even penetration.

3.

Dissolve kitchen salt in hot water and add it to the dye bath. Agitate for 10 minutes.

4.

Dissolve Soda Ash in little boiling water and add it to the dye bath. This will start a chemical reaction which will fix the colour to the material. Leave for 60-90 minutes depending on required depth of shade. The material should be periodically agitated.

5.

Rinse material under cold running water for ,then rinse in boiling or very hot water containing 1gr of SYNTHRAPOL per litre of water.

6.

For Scarlet, Turquoise & Green use Sodium Sulphate instead of kitchen salt

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The word "cold" fibre reactive dyes does not necessarily mean that they should be used in cold water. All "cold" reactives, who ever the manufacturer is, are designed to function at their optimum between 35 - 50 centigrade (95 -122F). If for some reason you feel inclined to use ice cubes in your dye bath - don't , you will get very poor colour yield. However if you really insist that the ice cubes are way to go, use NAPHTOL DYES as they are at their best in icy water.

  After dyeing is finished, the dye bath is completely
exhausted and can not be reused.



HAND PAINTING PROCESS

 

1.

Dissolve 10g DR-33 thickener in 1 litre of cold water add teaspoon of acetic acid, stir. If no thickener necessary omit step 1

2.

Dissolve

A. 60g Urea and 5g Resist Salt in a little hot water.
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B. 40g Soda Ash and 25g Bicarbonate of Soda in a little boiling water.

 3.

Combine A and B together and add cold water to make 1 litre, bottle and use as needed.

4.

Dissolve dye, add prepared A & B solution and DR-33 ( or Manutex) paste. Adjust to required consistency by adding either more A&B solution (or DR-33 paste if thickener is used).

Once the chemicals are added to the dye solution
the prepared mixture must be used within hour.

5.

Apply to fabric and leave to dry as long as possible, then rinse in cold water containing SYNTHRAPOL and few drops of vinegar.

 



 
DRIMAFIX PROCESS

DRIMAFIX is a one step fixing agent for use with DRIMARENE-K dyes. DRIMAFIX opens up new ways of exploring the full capabilities of Drimarene-K dyes by allowing the application of as many colours as one wish, with an easy and simple fixation process. It is now possible to treat a piece of cotton or silk material the same way a painter uses a canvas... simply paint on your design in as many colours as desired and when finished apply DRIMAFIX over the entire work for one step multi-colour fixation. There are no more messy chemicals to worry about.

1. Dissolve Drimarene-K in water ( For strong colour use 1gr of dye to 20 ml water, and for pastel shade use 1gr of dye to 200 ml of water). Do not add any chemicals. Apply the colour directly to the material with a paintbrush. Once the painting is completed, it should be left until it is completely dry.

2. Place the painting on a plastic sheet, which is slightly larger than the painting.

3. Apply DRIMAFIX over the entire painting with a brush or squeegee. Roll the whole thing up like a sausage, making sure that the ends are sealed to prevent it from drying. Leave the rolled material for at least two hours to complete the fixation process.

4. Unroll the material and wash it vigorously under cold running water until all traces of DRIMAFIX are washed away. The material should then be washed in hot water containing SYNTHRAPOL to remove any traces of excess dye and thus prevent possible bleeding during drying.

The first thing that one notices during the washing out is that there is absolutely no run-off of the dye at all. The dye has been fixed completely and providing that the cloth has been washed thoroughly, there will be no bleeding. The intensity of the fixed colour is the same as when originally applied - something that is not possible with any other fixing method.

DRIMARENE-K dye will keep in water solution for weeks WITHOUT any adverse results or loss of colour strength. This makes the DRIMAFIX method extremely economical. Simply mix a small quantity of concentrated dye, then dilute the solution to required strength as needed.



C
OLOURED LINES

Absolutely unique system possible only with combination of Super Gutta & Drimarene-K dye.
Mix small amounts of DRIMARENE-K dye powder with SUPER GUTTA. Fill the gutta applicator bottle (fitted with a fine nib) with the coloured gutta and draw your design. When dry, apply DRIMAFIX, which fixes the coloured lines and removes the SUPER GUTTA in one simple operation. Do not use Black colour as it will "gum" up. Very effective on silk as the thin coloured lines can be used in the manner similar to a pencil drawing on paper.



SCREEN PRINTING

For printing or silk screening, simply add some dissolved dye to the DR-33 powder, add teaspoon of acetic or citric acid to thicken it, then proceed as per steps 1 to 4 in hand painting method. It is important that the resulting printing paste is made to the right consistency - just thick enough to contain the dye from spreading onto surrounding areas.



TIE DYEING

1.

Dissolve cup of soda ash in boiling water.

2.

Add 4 litre of cold water.

3.

Soak material for 5 minutes, wring out and dye knots.

4.

Pour dissolved dye over the material (strength to suit
your requirement).

5.

Put dyed material into a plastic bag , seal it and leave for at least
couple of hours.

6.

Rinse well in water with added SYNTHRAPOL



4 MINUTES RAPID FIXATION PROCESS:

1.

Weigh the material. Each 100g (3.5oz) of dry weight will require
400 ml (14fl.oz) of DYE LIQUOR. (ratio fabric to dye liquor 1:4)

2.

Prepare the DYE LIQUOR as follows:

 

A.

60g(2 oz) / litre Urea + 20g / litre Sodium Sulphate
(or cooking salt) .

 

 

Dissolved Drimarene-K dye (strength as required )

 

B.

45g/litre Soda Ash

3.

Place material in plastic bag. Mix A + B and pour into the
bag.

4.

Seal the bag and make sure material is uniformly coated with dye liquor.

DYEING TIME 4 MINUTES.

5.

Remove from bag and hang till dripping stops (20-30 minutes).
Dry with hair drier. Rinse out in warm water with added
SYNTHRAPOL

Using this method it is possible to obtain VERY intense colours,
(using up to 5% of dye).

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 POLYCHROMATIC PRINTING

1.

Printing paste:
Dissolve 20g Manutex (or 5g DR-33) in 350 ml water, add 100g Urea, 10g Resist Salt and 25g Bicarbonate of Soda (12g. if printing on silk). Adjust consistency with water for screen-printing.

2.

Paint dissolved Drimarene-K dye directly onto the screen and allow to dry.

3.

Squeegee the printing paste though the painted screen directly onto material.

4.

Cover with plastic sheet to prevent drying out and leave preferably overnight before rinsing. Silk can be steam fixed.

 

DR-33 ( modified Guar Gum) thickener is better alternative to Manutex RS as it is much cheaper and easier to prepare. It has high tolerance to both acid and alkali dye solutions.

Preparation recipe: Dissolve maximum 25g (2 oz) of powder in 1 litre (1/4 gallon) of cold water. Add 23.100 drops of Acetic acid 30% (or 1/2 tsp. dissolved citric acid) shake and leave aside for 10 minutes to thicken.

 

 

POINTS TO REMEMBER

If everything else fails read the instructions

There are no bad dyes - only bad dyers

And no, there is no black & white striped dye

 


Drimarene-X & Remazol dyes

 

 


Dissolve dye, salt and enter fabric. Slowly agitate for 10 minutes.
Add Soda Ash and increase temperature. Fabric should be agitated
duringthe entire dyeing process to avoid uneven and spotty dyeing

Each kilo of fabric requires :

30~40 litre of water

20g. dye

1 kg salt

500g soda ash

60 minutes fixation

 

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