Devoré or
burnout (fabric etch), describes a process of chemically
destroying a component of a composite fabric. The burnout or
devore style used to be called broderie chimique in
Europe because it can be used to the give effect of machine
embroidery, which is achieved by chemical means. Normally
the burnout technique uses protein-cellulose or
synthetic-cellulose composite fibres especially constructed
for this purpose. The technique described here refers to
burning-out of cellulosic fibres, such as cotton, linen,
viscose from composite blends. Cellulose is decomposed
by acid, and printing on Chemical Salts that develop mild
acids with the application of dry heat can destroy
cellulosic fibres. Most commonly used
chemical is Sodium Bisulfate, which develops mild sulphuric
acid when heated (using dry iron). The use of burnout is
not restricted solely to composite fabrics - it can be used
on pure cellulosic. This can be combined with either
embroidery or sewing, or printed/painted acrylic binders to
keep the fabric from fraying. If the fabric is very
thick only the surface will be in contact with the burnout
paste. This can be used for relief effects on velvets and
velour. If the back of the velvet is synthetic or protein,
the pile can be totally removed by printing the burnout on
the backside of the fabric. The burnout can be
resisted with Bicarbonate of Soda or Soda Ash in paste
solution. Burnout process can be
used to remove fabric areas enclosed by machine stitches of
a non-cellulosic thread. RECIPE: Make
a
printing paste
using 20gr DR-33 powder in 1 litre of water. Let stand for a
couple of hours. * Mix: 200gr
sodium
bisulfate
in 120ml cold water. Add: 50gr
glycerine, stir until nearly
dissolved. Add: 630gr
printing
paste Total 1 litre
devore paste Note;
DR-33
thickener is more stable to addition of wide range of
chemicals than Manutex. It is easily dissolved in cold water
requiring only relatively short swelling time (1-2 hours
max.)
The consistency of finished paste may be adjusted to
required thickness with addition of
water.