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-D-
Direct Dye;
A dyestuff that coats the cellulosic fiber through the
application of an electrolyte (salt) and temperature
(140F-180F). This type of dyestuff requires an after
treatment to gain washfastness.
Disperse Dyes
Dyes that are insoluble in water which are applied to
the fibre as a fine suspension or "dispersion"
-
- Drimafix
A liquid used with all Drimarene-K reactive Dyes
to fix hand painted applications at room temperature
without steaming.
Drimarene - K
Fibre reactive dye (Sandoz 1958) Brilliant
colours, Stable in aqueous solution. Very long shelf
life.
Drimalan - F
Reactive dye for silk and wool
DR-33
An industrial Guar gum used to thicken dyes and
the burn-out/devore paste during burn out processes.
Extremely stable.Won't break down under strong acid or
alcaline conditions.
Dye
Activator
See Soda Ash-
Dyefix
Cataionic agent. Used on cotton to improve wash
fastness of Solar Dyes (direct dyes)
Can be used as an after treatment od fibre reacive
dyes if adequate washing facilities are not
available.
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-E-
Electrolyte;
The compound or liquid added to a dyebath to force the
color out of the water and onto the fabric.
- Exhaustion
Rate
The rate at which the color goes on the fabric.
Exhaustion is different for different colors and
should be considered when a new process is developed
and adjusted for. Colors exhaust on an uneven curve
according to the electrolyte content of the
dyebath.
- Extenders
When a specific type is not specified e.g.; Shelf
Life Extender, this usually indicates a product that
is used for diluting the original product, therefore
extending the use of it.
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-F-
Fiber Etch
see Sodium bisulphate
Fluorescent Pigment
In simple terms, it is an epoxy type resin
stained with various acid and basic dyestuffs. There
are only three truly fluorescent colors. They are
Pink, Yellow, and Orange. The fluorescent dye stuffs
used are Favine Yellow and Rhodamine Red. Once these
cakes are formed, they are then ground to a micron
particle size, usually around 4 microns.
Formosul
Sodium Formaldehyde Sulfoxylate. Also known as
RONGALIT.
It is the preferred discharge agent for silk and wool
which requires steaming. Will not dammage delicate
silk.
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-G-
Glauber Salt
Sodium Sulfate. Use in place of common salt when
dyeing wool, nylon and silk with acid dyes. May also
be used with reactive dyes, especially turquoise, to
increase color yield.
Glycerine (Glycerol)
Solvent and hydroscopic agent
Guar Gum - See DR-33
An industrial gum used to thicken the burn-out/devore
paste during burn out processes. Won't break down
under strong acid conditions.
Gutta
A liquid "resist", which forms a barrier on the
fabric to create a pattern. It may be water soluble
(Super Gutta or Serti Gutta) solvent soluble (solvent
based gutta)
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-H-
Hydrogen Peroxide
Bleaching & oxidising agent (vat dyes)
Humectant
A non-hazardous chemical added to retard drying. For
liquid colorant and water base screen inks, it is usually
Polyethylene Glycol. (PEG). But Urea is used extensively
in reactive printing.
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-I-
Invalon
P
Carrier for
dyeing polyester - see Polysol
Carrier
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-K-
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-L-
Ludigol
Sodium Salt of m-Nitrobenzene Sulfonic Acid.
Also known as Resist Salt L.
A mild oxidizing agent which prevents reduction of
Reactive Dyes during the curing and setting stage of
printing and hand painting. Necessary when using Hot
Reactive Dyes but optional for cold Reactive Dyes.
Lye
See Caustic Soda flakes
Lyogen
Dyeing assistant for Drimalan-F, used to obtain level
colors. Powerfull wetting
agent.
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-M-
Manutex
F
Low viscosity, high solids Sodium Alginate thickener
for all reactive dyes. Primarily used for silk, wool
& synthetic fabrics when fine line definition is of
importance.
Manutex
RS
High Viscosity, low solids Sodium Alginate thickener
for all reactive dyes. Primarily used for cotton. May
also be used for silk and synthetics when type of pattern
painted or printed does not require fine line definition
as in block printing.
Marbling Surfactant - See Oxgal
Mercerizing
A treatment of celullosic cloth with caustic soda
(Lye) in order to make it more receptive to dyeing.
Metaphosphate
Sodium Hexametaphosphate. The active ingredient in
"Calgon" Use as a water softener in hard water areas.
Methyl Cel M112
Methylcellulose. Clear efficient base for floating
colors when marbling. Once mixed, it can last up to four
months.
Modified Basic Dyes
Exeptionally brilliant dyes, known as Astrazones,
capable of dyeing acetate and acrylic fibre.
Momme
A Japanese weight equal to 3.75 grams which is
applied to a piece of fabric measuring 25 yards by 1.49
inches (an area of 1.035 square yards) Thus a 1 momme
silk would weigh 3.62 grams per square yard.
An 8 momme silk would weigh about 1 oz per square yard.
Habutai is woven from 2.5 to 60 momme. China silk is
commonly in the 8 to 14 momme range. Momme is abreviated
by 'mm'
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-N-
Naphtol AS
Product of Beta Naphtol, the coupling compound with
which the cloth is is first impregnated. The colour is
subsequently formed on the cloth after printing or
submersing with the second component; a Fast Colour
Salt
Nonionic
All compounds and chemicals have an electrical rating for
compatibility purposes. A nonionic agent has no
electrical charge and will blend with either cationic or
anionic agents.
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-O-
Oxgall
Liquid added to marbling colors that tend to sink
into the Carrageen base. Add two to three drops until
colors float properly.
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-P-
Pad Batch Dying;
A Process whereby material is saturated with a liquor
made from Reactive Dye, Salt, and Alkalai. The material
is allowed to sit in a sealed container for a
predetermined time to "React". The material is then hot
washed and rinsed and an aftertreat is
applied.
Paddle Dyeing;
A process of dyeing textiles in a machine that gently
move the goods using paddles similar to a paddle wheel on
a boat. This is a slow process, but there is extremely
little abrasion on the goods.
Penatrant;
Any agent used to increase the penetration of a colorant
into a substrate. Usually they are a blend of surfactants
with specific properties for a given
substrate.
Piece Dying or Piece Goods
Dyeing;
The process whereby textiles are dyed in their whole
form, prior to cutting and sewing.
Pigment;
A dry colorant that requires dispersion and grinding to
become a useable ink or dye. They are considered to be
environmentally safe in dry form and only run into
problems after dispersion. Check your MSDS or HMIS for
health and handling warnings.
Procion dye
Fibre reactive dyes (ICI 1955) simple to use. Not
stable in aqueous solution. Limited shelf life. Expensive
to use ;about half way price between vat and direct dyes.
High degree of fastness.
see Drimarene-K also Reactive dyes
Potasium Permanganate
Strong oxidising agent. Used in reducing
(bleaching) dyeings with Indigo and Soga 91. Will dammage
cloth if used in strong concentrations.
Pigment
Insoluble colours which have no substantivity for the
fibre. They are fixed by being mixed with a binder which
provides bond between them and the fibre.
Polyester Carrier
The dyeing auxiliary required when immersion dyeing
to dye polyester with Polysol Dyes. Good ventilation is
mandatory as is the use of a respirator
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-R-
Reactive
dyes
Class of dyes that chemically react with cellulose in
presence of weak alkalai to form a strong colour bond.
Procion was developed by ICI in 1955, followed by
Drimarene-K (Sandoz), Levafix (Bayer), Remazol (Hoechst)
& Cibacron (Ciba). Three determinig factors for
reactive dyeing are time, temperature, and
alkalai
Reduction
In textile technology, this term means eithrer the
removal of oxygen from a sustance, or the addition of
Hydrogen
Resist Salt L
Sodium Salt of m-Nitrobenzene Sulfonic Acid. Also
known as Ludigol. A mild oxidizing agent that prevents
reduction of Reactive Dyes during the curing and setting
stage of printing and hand painting. Necessary when using
hot Reactive Dyes but optional for cold Reactive
Dyes.
Rongalit
Trade name for Formosul (sodium formaldehyde
sulfoxylate) used
as colour remover.
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-S-
Sablostatic
Dyes that Vapourise and transfer when heated
Scour
The removal of impurities from fabric by means of
washing with detergent and the addition of other
assistants - such as solvents. The process will vary with
the type of fiber.
Soda Ash
Sodium Carbonate. Use as an alkali fixative for
reactive dyes.
Sodium Acetate Crystals
An acid forming salt that acts as a leveling agent
for Acid dyes. Sodium Acetate is a granular powder.
Sodium Bicarbonate
Bicarbonate of Soda or Baking Soda. Weak alkali used
in setting reactive dyes on silk by steaming. Use 2-5g
per litre of dye solution.
Sodium Bisulphite
Colorless to white crystals that form a very strong acid
when dissolved in water. Used to burn out cellulose from
cotton and cotton blend fabrics. It is CORROSIVE to skin
& eyes in
Sodium Hydrosulfite
Reducing agent for preparing Synthetic Indigo Dye.
Also used as bleaching agent for Direct (Solar) dyes and
some Fiber Reactive dyes.
Sodium Hypochlorite
Bleaching agent. Household bleach commonly
contains 3.2% Sod.Hypochlorite
Sodium Metabisulfite
Also known as Anti-Chlor used to neutralize
chlorine from bleached fabric.
Sodium Sulphate
Use in place of common salt when dyeing wool, nylon
and silk with acid dyes. It is used with reactive dyes,
(especially Turquoise, Scarlet & Green) to increase
color yield.
Sublimation
Chemical conversion of a solid substance directly
into vapour by the means of heat. On cooling the
substance re-solidifies.
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-T-
Termosoling - Theromfixation
Fixation by dry heat or 'baking'
T.R.O.
Or Turkey Red Oil.
Sulphonated Castor Oil, stabiliser and softener of
Naphtol dye bath.
T.U.D.
Thiourea Dioxide. A safe replacement for Sodium
Hydrosulfite in vat dyeing, discharge printing and
general color stripping on cellulose fibers. Non
flammable. Good shelf life if stored in a dry location.
Five times stronger than Sodium Hydrosulfite.
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-U-
Ultraviolet (U.V.)
The low end of the visable light spectrum which
extends below visable range. This frequency of light is
considered the culprit in color fading as well as causing
skin cancer.
Urea
A synthetic nitrogen compound used as a humectant in
printing and painting with all classes of dyes. Also acts
as a dye solubilizing agent with reactive dyes when the
amount of dye used exceed the solubility of that dye.
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-V-
Vat
A vessel , or a liquor containg a reduced (leuko)
vat dye.
e.g. Indigo
Vat dyes
Insoluble dyes that are applied to the fibre in an
alkaline solution of the dye in a reduced (leuko) form.
They are subsequently fixed by oxidising them back to its
insoluble form. Vat dyes have a very high fastness.
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